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Jerseys
Purple/Black with Waynos Fotos emblem as displayed in the video.
My size is 2XL and I am 85kg and 185cm tall for an idea of sizing.
Pricing $75.00 USD + shipping(to you) just need to confirm shipping costs to you to get a final TOTAL pricing. Let me know in the comments if interested or DM me on INSTAGRAM: @Waynos_fotos_cycling
Sizing in inches;
3XS: 27-29, length front: 17, Length arm: 10 (back order only)
2XS: 30-32, length front: 18, Length arm: 10 (back order only)
XS: 32-34, length front: 18, Length arm: 10 (back order only)
SMALL: chest 34-36, length front: 19, Length arm: 10
MEDIUM: chest 36-38, length front: 20, Length arm: 11
LARGE: chest 38-40, length front: 21, Length arm: 11
Xtra LARGE: chest 40-42, length front: 22, Length arm: 12
2x Xtra LARGE: chest 42-44, length front: 22, Length arm: 12
3x Xtra LARGE: chest 44-46, length front: 22, Length arm: 13 (back order only)
4x Xtra LARGE: chest 46-48, length front: 22, Length arm: 13 (back order only)
5x Xtra LARGE: chest 48-50, length front: 22, Length arm: (back order only)
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Had some great replys down below;
Just to clarify, how a tyre performs on a said surface/pressure varies dramatically and many of the answers below are raising good points.
I just wanted to dispel the myth, just because a tyre is wider it has more grip. That is not true.
If you guys would like me to do a follow up video on this topic going deeper please let me know down below?
Cheers
It may seem counter intuitive but its true. Especially when the road is wet. !!!
Most bicycle performace tyres are slick. In the dry, the wider tyre may seem to give you more grip due to a larger contact patch.
However, when its wet, it is better to have narrower tyres which provide more pressure to squish water from between the tyre and road surface . A wider tyre with less force per sq cm will have more water between the tyre and the road surface. Aquaplaning becomes real in wider tyres, especially when you do not have deep groovex to channel water away.
Other considerations, narrow tyres rely on a smaller contact area with the road to provide the grip needed (to accelerate or for cornering).
If that road surface is uneven, patchy or compromised in any way, you have no margin of error: you will lose traction. With wider tyres you have a greater margin of error for poor surface conditions.
Due to higher psi, narrower tyres will bounce more on poor surfaces, so time in contact with road is less therefore you lose both grip, control and comfort compared to a wider tyre.
Also, wider tyres, on a like for like basis, will allow more power to be put down at the contact point e.g in a sprint. This is firsthand knowledge from a front wheel drive bike on hills .
Wider tyres generally are better for power and grip and narrower ones for efficiency and aerodynamics.
Overall, wider tyres have the rule over skinny tyres in most areas apart from aerodynamic losses and weight , which may or may not be significant depending on speed, intended use and wheel choice.
Thank you! Even in the gravel realm, I am finding that these tires have gotten too wide. It seems to be a selling fad.
You are mixing up pressure and force. The frictional force is proportional to the force/load on the tire (which is basically the gravitational pull and the centrifugal pull in case you are in a turn) times the friction coefficient. The force is the same on both tires. According to your analogy we should have ultra skinny tires and an almost infinite contact pressure on the tarmac. But this would be counter productive. No road surface is perfect and a very narrow contact patch is more likely to temporarily skid off on a local small aspe ritira and thus make you lose grip. A wider tires will always have more grip in almost any condition. It will also be a bit slowlier, that’s for sure, but that’s another story
Wider tyres have more lateral grip because the shape of the contact area is wider, while a thin tyre may have more grip in the movement direction, but this is not what you need while you are cornering
I'd like to add one more comment…
Yes skinnier tire grip better than wider ones given the compound of the tire is the same,
but the term I prefer is that they track easier, which is no always a good thing.
Some times there are cuts and lines on not perfect roads. In that case I've experienced situations that because of the tires being skinnier, on poor surfaces and most of the time in cases of high speed they track so good that they take over.
Once they get on the curved trail they react as train on rails.
But unfortunately damaged road surfaces or track lines are in random directions and are not the ones I want to follow.
Wider tires of good compound are able to grip but they do not track in thin cuts and lines of poor asfalt. They give me the feedback that I need to correct my route and they are able to level the uneven road surface.
That said 28mm is my golden rule and I don't think I need anything wider than this.
On perfect roads my go to tire would be the 26mm Pzero.
I'm now using the 28mm Pzero and I'm rating it above Continental's Gp (still the tires that all others are judged) Schwalbe's Ultremo (very gripy but very soft) and Vitoria's Rubino Pro that have served me well (although a bit noisy, which was not so importand) .
Never mind the girth……its the diameter that's a problem for me. Trying to source 5 foot tyres for my Penny Farthing is not easy! However I can still buy narrow tyres for my 1930s rolls. I hear sourcing tyres for a Raleigh Chopper is hard too. (N.B Americans, its a bike not a helicopter)
Another well explained topic Wayno.
There must be a sweet spot of grip, comfort, weight and rolling resistance, I'm mainly on 25s, new carbon bike is widest it will take, resto mod 80s steel can take wider but would look wrong having a tyre thicker than the frame tubes.
I find it harder to slide my bike sideways with the wider tires. But water changes everything.
I've experimented with 25s and 28s over the last year versus the 23 I have used most of my life. I can tell I got slower with wider tires but the ride feel was nicer. I took the 28s off last week just to go back and see what differences I feel, but It's been raining and work interference so I haven't had the chance to ride in a week. I still say the only reason the bike industry is marketing wider tires is because of the tubeless issues with high pressure and with the wider tires you can use a lot lower pressure therefore giving the sealant a better chance of working. I don't believe wider is faster.
Your nail analogy is similar to skates vs shoes on ice. The skates cut into and defrom the ice surface for grip. The load is on a very narrow edge. Bike tires deform on the pavement, not vice versa. I used to have a cheap mtn bike with wide slicks and I felt much more confident cornering on pavement then with my road bike with 25mm tires. I think wider tires grip better until a certain point where they are too wide with a similar high pressure and then they may skitter about because there is not enough pressure per area. But I think that crossover point is really, really wide hard tires.
Wider tyres can have lower rolling resistance because the casing flexes less. On the other hand, for some applications such as cyclocross tyres, or rally car racing in slushy snow, having skinnier tyres is desirable cause they penetrate through the surface muck to get a grip.
On a clean paved road, however, it really just comes down to rubber compound. Hit some gravel, and wider will help you float over the pebbles better. Ride through some mud or snow, and skinny can be better. I think 25-28mm is fine for fair weather road cycling. If you're riding on mixed surfaces, go wider. My CX bike wears 42mm tyres because I ride it in on MTB trails and don't care about being UCI legal. Plus, wider tyres are less prone to pinch flats.
The only other factor though is that on rough surfaces, the skinny, high pressure tyres are more susceptible to "skip" than a slightly wider, lower pressure tyre. And by rough I don't mean off road but UK rural roads 🙂 But obviously that doesn't mean what you've said is wrong, just a part of the picture worth considering.
You have it almost right, just forgot friction and traction force; there are many variables and the summary of all forces related to the cross sectional area would be the answer but also that will depend on surface. the best practice is the regular rule of thumb, +/-1 Psi per kilo (rider weight). Does not matter the tyre size.
It's not simply the force per unit area. A 23mm tyre and 25mm tyre at the same pressure and load will have the same contact area (contact shape will be different). Typically wider tyres are run at a lower pressure which will increase the contact area. However the force remains the same and the friction between tyre and road remains the same. Friction = Coefficient of Friction x Load
The road surface must also be considered because it is not perfectly smooth. Hence a smaller contact area is more likely to momentarily break traction as the tyre rolls over small holes and polished parts of the surface.
Less grippier. 😉
Hi Wayne.
I think you are leaving something out.
First let's make sure we are on the same page. I agree with what you say in the vid; to say it in my terminology, the contact area depends almost linearly upon the inflation pressure. This is independent of the tyre width. A 73 kg rider plus 7 kg bike with tyres at 8 bar will have a total contact patch of 10 square cm, spread over the two tyres. This is assuming g is 10 m/s^^2, for simple arithmetic.
So total contact area in square cm = total weight in kg / tyre pressure in bar.
Next we have grip. This is much more complicated, because there are two kinds of grip: static grip and dynamic grip, aka hysteresis grip. However, they both depend on close contact between the tyre and the road surface. The overall area depends on the tyre pressure for a given weight, but the amount of close contact depends on how "soft" the rubber is, how rough or smooth the road is, and any lubricants present such as water, oil, or pebbles.
That is all pretty complicated, so lets stick to one rubber compound, one normal bitumen road surface, and no lubricants. In this case the amount of close contact simply depends on the total contact area.
This means that grip depends on contact area. I think this is where we disagree.
As we increase the tyre width the contact patch will stay the same, so the grip will stay the same. But because the wider and thus higher tyre has more ability to deform, it is also more stable in a corner and more comfortable over bumps.
The other thing claimed about wider tyres is that they are faster. Road shocks transmitted to the rider become lost energy, so wider tyres are also faster for this reason.
They are also faster because of reduced rolling resistance. This is the energy lost deforming the tyre casing as it rolls (it's that hysteresis again). For the same pressure the wider tyre has to deform less at a given inflation pressure.
Thanks for the vid, they are always thought provoking 🙂
Regards, Andy
Some may leave grinding their teeth having seen a video about tires which uses nails as an example.
It's also dangerous, the story may finish with a flat end.
So then the question is, why is the industry going fatter tyres if they are less aerodynamic and not better grip.
Comfort is the main factor but this is the result of the prevalence of uncomfortable carbon bikes. I find I stick with 23mm tyres because I ride titanium and steel mostly and do not feel the need for the extra size/comfort.
For about ten years now I have abandoned the skiny 23 mm tyres for the wider 25s and the last two years I'm using 28mm.
I'll never look back.
Grip, dependability, comfort and stability have increased.
Im really feeling that I can appreciate the quality, the stiffness and the responsiveness of a frame better. I'm even thinking of replacing my 25s on my 1989 Columbus Pinarello for 28s. Might be a magic carpet ride….
I feel like 25mm tyres are far better for cornering than 23mm, however this could just be a psychological effect that makes me feel more confident leaning into corners and thus going faster. A benefit from a bigger tyre is being able to run a lower pressure so that you can maintain grip over bumpy surfaces on corners. I still wouldn't go bigger than 25mm on a road bike though.
Your reasoning is really good. Not asking for too many details but is your primary job engineering?
Thanks Waynos, another excellent explanation. I reckon you are now ready for part 2. Lol Wide tyres vs narrow tyres for optimal aerodynamics. Wide tyres vs narrow tyres for minimal rolling resistance. Finally, rolling resistance vs aero resistance & which is most important. Loving your work.
Rubber Compound and Thread Design is what makes a tire grippy. A skinny tire only provides you marginal gains in speed on road bikes. A fat tire only makes the bike easier to ride with a larger surface area.
I’ve seen people who ride bikes but can’t ride road bikes. Not because of the drop bars. But because of the skinny tires. Skinny tires are harder to balance on a bike.
You need to have great balance to ride a road bike slow or fast. Even a slight mistake can cause a crash. If your natural balance isn’t great to begin with. You can even get blown off the road by a crosswind. If your bike control skills isn’t that great.